Paris has the Champs-Elysées. London, Park Lane. And Rome, the Via del Corso. But from coast to coast, the United States boasts hundreds of Main Streets. Main Street is that thoroughfare that leads to other streets. This is part of the concept of Main Street Restaurant, 75 Greenwich Ave., N.Y.C. — one of New York’s newest restaurants. Through experience and research, owners David “Garnish” Daly, Andrew Hoffman and Jeffrey Weisman concluded that the United States cuisine is as distinctive as other cuisines of the world. It even has regional distinctions. Main Street Restaurant has divided the cuisines of the continental United States into six divisions — New England, Southern, South Western, Mid-Western, Creole-New Orleans, and Far Western.
By way of Main Street Restaurant’s menus, a diner is able to take a culinary excursion, each evening of the week, to other parts of the country. For each evening there is a menu characteristic of one of the six regions. But what comes to the table may not always be that region’s most renowned dish. For example, the menu offered the night I stopped in was New England night. No, it was not a New England boiled dinner. There was, as there always is, a choice of two entrées, broiled scallops or scalloped oysters.
I chose scallops broiled in lemon and butter — described as “succulent bay scallops.” Succulent they were! So much so, I found it unnecessary to garnish it with lemon juice.
All entrées are served with rice or a baked potato and seasonal fresh vegetables from the highlighted region. The regional vegetable served that evening at Main Street Restaurant was Maple Baked Acorn Squash. Now, acorn squash is a vegetable I’ve not liked or trusted since my introduction to it many years ago. It fooled me into thinking it was a yam. I won’t say Main Street Restaurant’s Acorn Squash made me a fan for life. But my fork kept going back to it until I’d eaten nearly all. This is no small tribute to the young Black man who has domain over the kitchen, Chef Herb Winton.
Of course, any meal in a restaurant has a beginning, the appetizer, and the end, coffee or liqueur. Main Street Restaurant serves no appetizers. They serve what is called a “warm up.” Shortly after David Bond or one of the other pleasant waiters/waitresses places your warm-up before you, Jeffrey Weisman may very well stop by your table to explain what the warm-up is all about. That night, he explained that the word “appetizer” is a concept borrowed from Europe. In keeping with their philosophy of serving authentic American food Main Street Restaurant created the “warm-up.” This night it was a small, hot corn custard. It took me some time to getting used to its taste — but I’m willing to bet it was a hit at Plymouth Rock! Also, on the New England menu was a hearty and very tasty clam chowder, a salad with an avocado yogurt dressing and Boston Cream Pie.
On an evening when the regional menu is southern, the diner can expect Black Bean Soup, Baked Virginia Ham or Brunswick Stew, “Old Time Greens” (Collards and Mustards) and Pecan Pie. On Creole (New Orleans) night, look for Chicken Gumbo Soup, Chicken Jambalaya or New Orleans Court Bouillon, Candied Mirliton (a cousin of the cucumber and squash) and Apricot Rum Whip.
Realizing that all taste buds don’t travel the same route, Main Street Restaurant also offers nine outstanding entrées. One of which is a Vegetarian Special. Their entrées range from $6.50 (the Vegetarian Special) to $15.75 (the Classic 16 oz. Steak). Soup and dessert are additional ($1.00 and $1.75) as are beverages.
A good selection of domestic wines is available, including, champagne. There is bar service along with table service. With such an all-American theme, one might expect Main Street Restaurant’s decor to be red, white and blue with a marching-band serenade. However the ambience is serene and simple, bordering on chic. It is a very comfortable room for dining and conversation. A double windowed wall eliminates all outside noises from this street level restaurant. Enhancing the mood is music, pre-taped by the owners, which include Dinah Washington and George Benson. Main Street is a delightful change of pace and a long overdue step up from the national symbols hamburgers and hot dogs. It would not be surprising if, like its namesake, all routes eventually did lead to this restaurant.
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