Emily Meggett shares her centuries-old Gullah Geechee recipes
Through my childhood eyes, I always saw Edisto Island as a place far removed from the rest of the world. In fact, there was a time when I truly believed that this little piece of paradise sat perfectly at the end of the earth. In all of my innocence, it made good sense to me that our Great Creator had simply saved the very best for last. And on that note, I proudly introduce the extraordinary Emily Hutchinson Meggett, the Matriarch of Edisto Island who shares her centuries-old Gullah Geechee recipes — a woman whom I have known, loved and adored my entire life.
At the vibrant, and, in her case, youthful age of 89, Emily Meggett is the celebrated and highly acclaimed author of the best-selling cookbook Gullah Geechee Home Cooking: Recipes from the Matriarch of Edisto Island. This coveted cookbook is published by Abrams, New York. To date, Mrs. Meggett has been featured in The New York Times, and has either been interviewed or hotly pursued by all of the major television channels, networks, and media outlets. She has single-handedly changed the culinary world, and is considered the most important authority on Gullah Geechee home cooking.
Her cookbook — which has taken the culinary world by storm — contains 123 Gullah Geechee recipes mostly transferred from generation to generation by word of mouth. Certain staples such as rice, seafood, and locally grown fresh vegetables are key to her cooking. She considers broccoli, beans, corn, peas, crushed red pepper, grits, okra, squash, tomatoes, onions and scallions as other essential items. Mrs. Meggett’s cookbook is so much more than a cookbook. It is a beautifully scripted narrative of her life, her love for family, food, community, and the Gullah Geechee way of life.
When you cross the Dawhoo Bridge that connects Edisto Island to the rest of South Carolina, you’re in Heaven. Heaven on earth, that is.
Emily Hutchinson Meggett was born on Edisto Island on November 19, 1932. Her roots are well-planted in the soil of Edisto Island, as her family has lived on the island for generations, and can be traced back to pre-Civil War times. She is the undisputed Queen Mother, who proudly wears several well-deserved crowns — “Queen of Edisto” and “Matriarch of Edisto.” Those of us who know her, affectionately call her “Miss MP.” She has unselfishly given more of herself than most people will give in two lifetimes. Even now, she still prepares home cooked meals, and personally delivers them to Edisto’s sick and shut-in. Raised by her grandmother, who had 14 children, Emily married Jesse Meggett in 1951. Their wedding feast consisted of pound cake and homemade cherry wine. Together they had 11 children. Sadly, she lost two daughters — one to a heart attack, and the other, more recently, to COVID, during the peak of the pandemic. With her sudden fame and stardom as a best-selling cookbook author, she jokingly says that she is in good hands with two of her daughters — Lavern and Marvette — whom she has nicknamed “the general and the corporal.”
Emily Meggett’s husband, Jesse, was born in the historical Point of Pines Plantation Slave House on Edisto Island. A living testament to the endurance of a family, the 1853 slave cabin, donated by the Edisto Island Historic Preservation Society, is now a main attraction at the Smithsonian’s National Museum of African-American History and Culture in Washington, DC. The slave cabin was listed in the National Register on November 28, 1986. One of two remaining slave dwellings left on Edisto Island, the Point of Pines Plantation Slave Cabin was featured in the museum’s inaugural exhibition, Slavery and Freedom.
My own beloved Queen Mother, Eugenia McKelvey Smalls Campbell and Miss MP were the nearest and dearest of friends. After many years of serving as church clerk, when my mother finally retired from that position, it was Miss MP whom she passed the ledger to. Mrs. Meggett held the position of church clerk for over 28 years. Indeed, I refer to Miss MP as my second mother. We speak often by phone, with our conversations usually lengthy, and always lively. In addition to being a rock star author and a well-seasoned cook, (pardon the pun), she is also an amazing historian when it comes to Edisto, with a memory as sharp as a tack.
For me, cooking wasn’t just a job. It is my life, and it still is today. Cooking is how I take care of people, how I support my community, and how I love others the way God intended.
On a trip back home to Edisto last fall, two of my cousins and I went by to visit her, and to pick up a pan of hot, buttery biscuits she had made especially for us. She showed us beautiful photos of dishes that would be included in her long awaited Gullah Geechee cookbook. Then she fed us, and fed us some more. We each left with a jar of her famous pepper jelly and those fluffy, buttery biscuits. I promised her that nothing would prevent me from attending the launch and signing of her book. You see, the making of Miss MP’s glorious cookbook was more than twenty years in the making. But, as they say: it was well worth the wait.
Amidst perfect spring weather and the backdrop of ancient live oaks and palmetto trees, Miss MP’s book launch and signing was held on a Saturday, April 23, 2022. It was appropriately held at the Historic Hutchinson House on Edisto Island, South Carolina. The Hutchinson House is the oldest identified house on Edisto that is linked to African-Americans post-Civil War. It is listed in the National Register of Historic Places. With more than 500 people attending, she graciously signed book after book. The books were sold out, half-way through the event, as people, eager to get signed copies, purchased 2,3,4,5 copies at a pop.
I spoke to Miss MP briefly this past Mother’s Day, and we made arrangements for an interview at a later date. The following is an excerpt from that interview.
ROUTES: For people who are unfamiliar with the Gullah Geechee cuisine, please explain what it is.
First, let me say that cuisine is a fancy term that they use now, when I was growing up it was just good home cooking. As far as the Gullah Geechee, if you have heard of shrimp and gravy over grits, beans and rice or corn fritters, this is referred to as that type of cooking. I have learned that Okra, grains, and seafood are among the key ingredients of Gullah-Geechee cuisine. They’re used in staple dishes like okra soup, that we put over rice or just eat as a soup with saltine crackers, cornbread/muffin.
ROUTES: You were born and grew up on Edisto Island. How has that influenced the way you cook?
Being born and raised on Edisto Island influenced my cooking in a lot of ways. I was taught how to cook by my grandmother and an older woman by the name of Ms. Julia Brown. You had to do it right or do it over. Every meal should be flavorful and cooked with love and you never cooked just enough for you and your family, because you never know who is going to stop by. Today, I still follow what I learned from them.
ROUTES: How old were you when you realized that you had a special gift for cooking?
At age 12, I was cooking because I didn’t like working in the fields. So, I would prepare the food and take it to the field for my grandmother and my uncles. When I got my first job at the Dodges and started cooking for the family, I realized that this was a special gift given to me by none other than God.
ROUTES: What are some of your favorite Gullah Geechee dishes?
I would have to say some of my favorite Gullah Geechee dishes are; Okra soup, Red Rice, Shrimp and Gravy over Grits w/salt pork (we call it Butts Meat), Hoppin’ John and Collard Greens.
ROUTES: How is Gullah Geechee cooking different from other cuisines?
Gullah-Geechee cooking, I believe is different because it is a mix of West and Central African way of cooking with Low country ingredients, in dishes like okra soup, crab rice or flavorful seafood crab boil.
ROUTES: What are the most important ingredients used in preparing Gullah Geechee dishes?
The most important ingredient for me is the salt pork (Butts meat), because of the rich flavor and other seasonings used, like Nature seasoning and Gold Medal seasoning salt.
ROUTES: Anyone who knows you knows that you love to cook. You also love to feed people. How do you keep your passion for cooking after so many years?
My passion for cooking is embedded in my brain, my heart and my hands. Every time I prepare something for others and I see the smiles on their faces, or get a phone call that tells me how delicious the food is, it just makes me want to do more. Especially for those who are sick or grieving. This is my gift from God and I love it just as much today at 89 as when I was 25. When I get up in the morning, I always say, God, lead me to someone that I can prepare a good meal for or bless today.
ROUTES: You are an impeccable cook. How do you manage to maintain such high standards and quality in your food preparation?
My standards are very high, because I was taught that you don’t take shortcuts, wash your grits, wash your rice and make sure you clean that chicken before you fry or bake it. Prepping is very important. Sometimes you need to season your meats overnight so the flavor can soak through, you can also chop onions or peppers the night before to save time in the kitchen.
ROUTES: You prepare such a wide variety of dishes. Have you memorized all of your recipes?
Yes, all of my recipes are in my brain. I don’t have to look in a cookbook or on a piece of paper. Just tell me what you want and I can prepare it.
ROUTES: How do you stay organized, and pay attention to detail when making multiple dishes at the same time?
For me, this is an art. I have always made several dishes at one time and I know my way around the kitchen and the stove. It just comes naturally.
ROUTES: Not only are your Gullah Geechee dishes delectable and beautiful to look at, but you prepare full meals, and your kitchen is spotless. What is your secret to being able to do this?
My secret to keeping my kitchen spotless is to clean and wash those dishes as you go. Never let them pile up until you are finished.
ROUTES: What is your best memory and experience growing up on Edisto?
Being able to get all the fresh vegetables and seafood that you need. But my best experience is the people. On Edisto there is a sense of community. Everyone looks out for each other and their children.
ROUTES: As the Matriarch of Edisto Island, you’ve spent a lifetime cooking for, and feeding your own family as well as hundreds of other people. At some point or another, everyone on the island has enjoyed your mouth-watering dishes. With the recent launch of your wonderful Gullah Geechee Cookbook, you’ve become a superstar overnight. How are you handling your new celebrity status?
I don’t consider myself a celebrity or superstar. God has planned this day and moment in time for me. He has been preparing me for a long time and this is the way that I am viewing it. People from all over the world and Edisto have always loved and treated me with respect and I in return have done the same for them. There were no guests at my house before the cookbook, and there are no guests now. I am still preparing meals for who I call “my little old people”. Success tells you two things; who you are and who you are not. This little humble girl from a place called Edisto Island has come too far to change now.
I am not living the dream, I am the dream.
God has kept me, and it’s only by His grace that I am able to share my recipes and stories with the world.
I loved seeing Mrs.Emily in tv making her grits and crab gravy.Thats rich when you can call it gravy with at least a pint of crab meat.Great Gravy.My idol..
Gravy!!!