Tue. Oct 27th, 2020

Dining: Poletti’s Restaurant |1978-6-5

Polett's couples entering the Restaurant

Normally the pleasure of dining elegantly is coupled with the necessity of dressing “properly.” At Poletti’s (2315 Broadway at 84th St.), however, we found such a code passé; and both French jeans and Chantilly lace are comfortable in this unique new dining cove.

Specializing in Italian cuisine, Poletti’s is a place you’ll want to patronize frequently. Whether out with friends or on a special date, this restaurant is just right for any occasion. For unlike traditional Italian style, the interior is reminiscent of Old New Orleans and the gay nineties — that’s depending on where you’re looking.

The etched glass partition, the stained wood floors, the candlelit tables, the works of art, the brick dining insets and the mirrored and stained glass ceiling will keep your eyes roving from the moment you sit down.

Chef Jim Wilcoxen chatting with guests.
Chef Jim Wilcoxen chatting with guests.

Owners Suzanne Cole and Jim Wilcoxen are antique buffs — they’ve accumulated many pieces from various parts of the world. Restauranteurs for the past seven years, they are also the owner’s Duff’s Restaurant in Greenwich Village. Poletti’s, named after the head chef at Duff’s, is their contribution to casual elegance and its warm atmosphere invites you to relax.

The most important thing here is the food. It’s great! The menu is enticing. From Antipasto [appetizers] to Dolci [desserts], you’ll want to taste them all. Be patient. Allow the waiter time to announce the specials. They’re as mouth watering as main dishes.

The specialties are a daily occurrence with at least two, if not three, varieties: Striped Bass poached with mussels and clams, Veal Valdostano, [stuffed veal with prosciutto and mozzarella cheese] prepared with wine sauce.

The Zuppas [soups] are quite good. The lentil soup is a definite must, which I label as “smokin.” There are several main courses you must try:

Cannelloni [$4.95], veal, chicken, spinach and cheese rolled in pasta with tomato sauce; Tagliatelle al Frutta di Mare [$5.25], mussels, shrimps and scallops; and Polio alia Cacciatore [$7.50], pieces of chicken, fresh tomato, mushrooms, onion, white wine. Each is excellent.

Poletti’s cheesecake [$2] will delight dessert lovers. Try it plain or with plump strawberries.

As for drinks, they are potent. The wine list is fairly extensive and all wine is served in carafes, except the house wine, which is pretty good.

On Sundays, Poletti’s offers brunch. Some possible goodies: fresh strawberries with cream; Irish coffee; crêpes or omelettes with bacon, ham, sausage, mushrooms or spinach; creamed smoked beef; cheesecake or croissants.

Experience the warmth and uniqueness of Poletti’s. If you plan to dine over the weekend, reserve a table. (212) 580-1200. Enjoy

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