The Perfect Slice of Pizza pizza illustration betty acosta
The Perfect Slice of Pizza. Illustration by Betty Acosta.

Opinions on what constitutes the perfect slice of pizza in New York is as varied as the innumerable toppings that grace the pizza pies.

Now that the outdoor season is upon us, people will be eating more and more on the run. Thus, pizza lovers will find themselves faced with the agonizing question: Where do I find the perfect slice of pizza?

Though there are hundreds of places to choose from, one can rest assured that New York pizza runs the gamut from the horrendous (mangy mozzarella, with lost-at-sea-sauce) to the sublime (crisp and light, crust, balanced seasonings).

Pizza, originally an Italian dish, reaches into every ethnic nook and cranny of Gotham, and, for some has become as indispensable as Monday Night Football or Ryan’s Hope in the afternoon.

Pizza is not, like many have been led to believe, an American invention. But then again, it’s only a partially Italian invention, too. Many Italian cities were founded by Greeks. The most famous being in Naples — the home of pizza, but original Neapolitan pizza (pizza napoletana verace) is different from what you now pick up on Eighth Avenue as a slice. The thin crisp pizza napoletana verace was a thin crisp mini-pie. Blistered in a wood fired beehive-shaped oven for three minutes. Not the popular wedge we’ve come to know.

Before World War II, pizza eating was generally limited to southern Italy and it was brought to America by the Italian immigrants who settled in the nation’s urban areas. However, the GI’s and the post-war tourist boom brought the pizza to these shores in a big way.

Currently, Americans eat $4 billion worth of the stuff each year. Not surprisingly, pizza is nosing out hot-dogs (street vendors might argue this point), fried chicken and that perennial fast food winner, the hamburger, as America’s favorite fast food. It is undeniably New York’s favorite. The nation’s major pizza chains, Pizza Hut and Shakey’s, don’t stand a chance with the discriminating New York pizza lover.

Pizza is as simple to get in the city as a dirty look from a harried pedestrian. Often the neighborhood pizza parlor is a social gathering place, where people do more eating than socializing. However, the folks who know their stuff often roam like hungry nomads through the hustle and bustle of the city in search of the perfect slice of pizza.

Hunting down the ambitious pizzeria is worth it. That’s if you know what to look for. Generally, make sure it’s clean. The appearance of the place may well reflect on the kind of pizza you’ll get.

Primarily, quality ingredients are important. Pizza’s basic ingredients are simple enough (yeast dough, covered with tomatoes and mozzarella cheese). But some slices don’t even meet the minimum standards. Cheese that you can chew and swallow is only reasonable. A crust that’s not too thin or thick. A fragrant tasty sauce, in my opinion, is not too much to ask for. Lukewarm pizza unfortunately, is a recurring phenomenon at lousy storefront establishments.

It is advisable to watch the person behind the counter closely and keep an eye on what they’re doing with your slice. Your pizza, if pre-baked, should be put back into the oven long enough to help the crust firm up. That prevents it from wilting all over the place. Garnish on your pizza is up to you — the quality of toppings vary from pizza parlor to pizza parlor.

With these lessons behind us, let’s go out for some pizza. I’ve taken the time to single out some worthwhile places, and I’m sure I may have missed some. After all, there’s only so much of the stuff you can eat. But here are the

ROUTES’s Perfect Slice of Pizza recommendations:

Mariella’s Pizza — 225 West 57 St — 757-3016

Gino’s — 275 Eighth Ave at 23rd Street — 929-948 1

Rocky’s Pizza — 1109 First Ave — 371-4965

Goldberg’s Pizzeria — 998 Second Ave — 593-2172

Pizza Joint — 2165 Broadway at 77 Street

Angelo’s Pizza — 3415 Broadway, Astoria, Queens — 728-0430

Sal’s Pizzeria — 118 Mott Street (They serve the original pizza napoletana verace)

Catania’s — 2316 Arthur Ave, Bronx

Donato’s Pizza — 1455 St. Nicholas Ave near 181 Street

Jamaica Pizza — 166-03 Jamaica Ave, Queens — 657-2635

Parson’s Pizza — 87-82 Parsons Blvd, Queens — 523-7579

Pizza Spot — 433 DeKalb Ave, Brooklyn — 783-9173

My apologies to those with the perfect pizza who are not on the list, but none to those pizza parlors who fed me soggy, cold, and flavorless pizza.

Many Japanese pizza lovers like their perfect pizza with squid, soybeans, bamboo shoots or strawberries. The French pizza lovers often throw on a raw egg before baking, while Australian pizza lovers go Hawaiian style with a little pineapple. The Brazilian pizza lovers like plums and figs on theirs. And New Yorkers? Well, they like it SMOGGY. (Sausage, Mushrooms, Onions, Green peppers.)

At most of pizza parlors, you can expect to spend between 50 cents and 80 cents for a slice of pizza. Plus a surcharge if you want extra cheese or an exotic topping.

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